Retinoids – The Superhero Ingredient
Retinoids are one of the most studied ingredients in the skincare industry and often considered to be the gold standard for many skin concerns such as premature aging, dark spots, and uneven texture. Whether you are a skincare minimalist, essentialist, or enthusiast, a balanced retinoid formulation will more than likely be in your arsenal.
What are the benefits of using a retinoid?
Retinoids are a ritual staple for a reason. With consistent use, skin can look smoother and more refined, with a visibly reduced look of fine lines and wrinkles over time. Skin's texture appears more even, pores look less congested, and the overall complexion can look calmer and more balanced, making retinoids a favorite for those managing breakout-prone skin, as well as anyone leaning into the healthy aging journey.
It's important to understand there are several forms of retinoids and each will penetrate the skin differently. Retinoids are lipid-soluble, which is why they have such a strong affinity for skin. Once applied, they move through the epidermis into the dermis, where the real work happens.
But there's a catch: retinoids aren't active on arrival. Each one has to convert into retinoic acid before your skin can use it, and which retinoid you're using determines how many steps that takes.
Retinoic acid — no conversion required. As a raw ingredient, retinoic acid is considered a drug, which is why it's only available by prescription (tretinoin).
Retinal (retinaldehyde) is one step away from retinoic acid, potent enough to deliver visible results, without the conversion lag of retinol or retinyl esters. It's the star of our Resurfacing Elixir.
Retinol takes two steps: first to retinaldehyde, then to retinoic acid. You'll find it in The Boost, exclusive to our treatment room.
Retinyl esters (like retinyl palmitate) take three: first to retinol, then retinaldehyde, then retinoic acid. This is the gentler form we use in Blueberry Milk Moisturizer, Peach & Honey Mask, and Pomegranate Acai Antioxidant Serum — ideal for daily use and layering.
This is why we formulate Resurfacing Elixir with retinaldehyde, it's close enough to retinoic acid to actually perform, and we pair it with beta glucans to help buffer the skin along the way.
Key points to remember when incorporating a retinoid:
+ If you are new to retinoids it is best to ease into using them. Start with using them one to two times a week in the evening for two weeks. Then work up to every other night for two weeks, eventually working up to every night. You may notice some flaking and mild sensitivity while the skin adjusts. Consistent application is key, however, if you need to cut back to remain comfortable you will still benefit from the results.
+ They are best applied at night when the skin is recovering and regenerating itself.
+ You MUST wear SPF every day! Retinoids are pushing up fresh new skin and protection is key.
+ Retinoids provide long term results. You will notice a difference in the skin after a few weeks of use, and even more so after a few months of use. As much as we wish collagen and elastin could be produced overnight, good things take time.
+ If you receive facial waxing be sure to stop your retinoids a minimum of 72 hours before waxing and wait to use again until the delicate skin has healed.
At Sorella Apothecary, each product is formulated intentionally. We always recommend visiting a Sorella esthetician for recommendations and a complete skincare regimen customized to achieve your skincare goals. Find one using our spa locator.